Dearest Readers,
I’m thrilled to be joining you all for today’s guest spot. I am rejoicing as I write because I have the honor of bringing you a tale of sweet, sweet redemption in the form of numerous friendly animal encounters on this our longest drive day. To briefly recount: although some of you may not know it, I’m actually quite fond of animals. In many cases, a stalwart friend to them. Unfortunately, the Terns from a few days ago did not see it that way. To them I was a threat with whom to be swiftly dealt. I can still hear their plotting calls…the hovering…the dives and weaves…but I digress.
Still feeling fresh off my impromptu, terrified run from the violent, stabbing beaks of the birds and the loud, naïve laughter of my mother, I’d been understandably wary about other animals we might see. The whales had been a welcome treat, and today those fears continued to be assuaged. We began the day at the Seal Center. A quick four minutes from the hotel, we learned about the rich history of seals in the Vatnsnes peninsula. Fun fact, did you know that seals can live to be up to 35 years old? Bonus fact, did you know sheep here generally have two lambs? We picked up a new driving companion, a seal plush named Grug, who is the spitting image of our father, Greg, and continued on our way.
On we drove in and out through the fjords. Using the four Bs we learned whale watching, we spotted a bonus whale in the fjords! Within another fjord, Audrey spotted 106 mother ducks with babies. And we saw seals! Six sleek seals sunning. We’ve learned through observation that, if they aren’t in the water, seals prefer to flop on top of small rocks like mermaids. They really are so very cute.
Our penultimate site of the day was the Museum of Witchcraft. The exhibition tells the story of the witch craze in Iceland in the 17th century and how witchcraft is presented in our folklore. Interestingly, of those convicted of witchcraft, only one was a woman. Many of the spells required very particular steps taken in a very particular order, if they were to succeed. Incantations could be used for anything from generating wealth to directing storms. I’ve been told I should not discuss the necropants.
Anythewhoo, we continued our drive. Soon, we stopped for the final time before arriving at our evening destination. Built in 1895, Litlibaer is a charming timber house with stone walls and a turf roof. Just 29 sq.m., the farm is one of the smallest in Iceland but around 20 people lived there at one point. The last inhabitants moved out as late as 1969. After which the place has been turned into a museum which hosts an exhibition about life in those days, and a cafe that serves coffee and the best waffles in Iceland.
Although no people live in Litlibaer anymore, sheep certainly do. As we approached the door, a small herd of sheep and galivanting lambs approached Gillian, Mom, and me. Their confident leader approached Mom. I braced myself for what may come. The sheep leader stomped two hooves and peered deeply into Mom’s eyes (perhaps recognizing that she was our leader). When Mom failed to respond, the sheep stomped twice more and stared, knowingly and inquiring. When Mom again failed to produce what the sheep wanted, the herd departed. Interspecies conflict was avoided and we instead got to enjoy a close look at some of Iceland’s cutest critters.
We entered Litlibaer. These were – and I can not stress this enough - the best waffles in Iceland. Tucked in that charming café, nestled in the turf-roofed home, we sat and toasted our victories of the day with three waffles, three cups of hand-whipped cream, rhubarb jam, blueberry jam, coffees, teas, blueberry cake, and (oh why not) one more waffle and an apple cake. Come to find out, the sheep don’t like waffles but they do like bread. I suspect that was the nature of their request. All to say, if you’re ever in the Westfjords, Litlibaer is a must do stop.
And with that, a currently full belly, and a pecan pie waiting for me, I sign off, Dear Readers, until another day.
Contently Yours,
Elizabeth
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